Q.
I understand the basics of soldering a jumpring, but everything I've read and watched shows soldering a jumpring by itself. I need to use soldered jumprings to permanently close a piece. In other words there will be closures and beadwork on either side of the jumpring I am soldering. How do I solder this jumpring without damaging my work?
- Karen
A.
Solder a sterling silver jumpring independently of the beadwork as soldering close to your beadwork could result in damaging the materials and creating a hazard for you (glass or gemstone materials could shatter from the heat). You can, however solder the jumprings to your findings which would then give you a "closed" element to work your beadwork from.
The order should be:
- Sandra Lupo, Jewelry Designer and Instructor and SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS Ambassador
Materials
The order should be:
- Choose a sterling silver clasp without a steel mechanism, such as a box clasp, S-hook or toggle clasp.
- Add a suitably sized clean open jumpring to the clasp and close securely for soldering. Prepare another ring for the other side of the clasp.
- Solder the jumprings individually with silver solder, flux and a butane torch, directing the heat to the rings only.*
- Clean the jumprings with pickle to remove oxides and polish the jumprings and clasp to bring back the shine.
- Add your finished beadwork with Accu-Flex® professional-quality beading wire and crimps or needle and thread directly to the soldered jumprings and clasp.
- Sandra Lupo, Jewelry Designer and Instructor and SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS Ambassador
Materials
- Sterling silver clasps
- Sterling silver jumprings
- Self-pickling flux for soldering
- Pickle compound
- Pickle pot
- Solder
- Torches
- Accu-Flex beading wire
- Crimp beads
- Beading needles
- Thread and cord
- ''Firing Art Clay® with a Gas Torch'' instructions
- ''Making Ball-tip Headpins with a Butane Torch'' how-to video and illustrated instructions
- ''Clasps: Closing the Show'' article
- ''All About Jumprings'' article



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