Multi-Strand Bracelet with Copper Components, Kumihimo and Seed Beads
-- Designer --
Tammy Honaman, Author, Jewelry-Making Expert and Educator, Exclusively for Fire Mountain Gems and Beads®To learn more about Tammy Honaman, read her jewelry artist success story here
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Thread one end of one length of cording onto the J needle. Place a Bead Stopper™ about 12 inches from the needle.
Thread on beads until you have strung about 4 inches of beads. Remove the needle then put a second bead stopper onto the strand to keep the beads in place.
Repeat for another one of the seven remaining cords so you have two strands with beads and six strands without. I strung beads on the turquoise and light blue strands for this braid.
Gather all eight strands together then tie an overhand knot. This is not a permanent knot, it is only to keep the cords in one place while you create the Kumihimo braid. Pass the knot down through the center of the Kumihimo disk until the knot is about 2 - 3 inches below the surface of the disk. Place one strand in each of the slots in the pattern shown below, making sure the two strands with beads are on opposite sides of the disk.
Wind the remaining length of one cording onto one huggy spool until you have about 2 inches of cording available below where the cording is anchored to the disk.
This length of cording will keep the bobbins from getting tangled, as well as give you enough length to weave a few times around the disk. As you need more length, unwind the bobbin to release a bit of the cording.
Repeat for all of the other strands. Remove the bead stoppers from one strand with beads then incorporate the beads into the bobbin, leaving 2 inches of cording and about 1-inch of beads below where the cording is anchored to the disk.
Hold the disk so the number 32 is at the top. While holding the knot below the disk with the same hand holding the disk, move with your other hand the top right cord (in the slot to the right of #32) down and into the slot to the right of the two cords already in place at the bottom of the disk (in the slot next to #15).
Move the bottom left up and to the slot left of the remaining cord on the top (in the slot next to #31).
Tip: As you move the strands into their new slots, maintain tension on the knot and developing cord underneath the disk. Tighten the strands on top of the disk as needed, by pulling on the working strands, and keep the core of the strand centered in the opening of the disk. These measures will help keep an even tension through the braid.
Rotate the disk a quarter turn counterclockwise.
Repeat until you have worked with each pair of cords about six times and until you have about a 1/2 inch of woven braid. This will give you the length needed when finishing the strand with crimp ends later.
Repeat Step 5, working around the disk until you get to the first strand with beads. You will work this strand the same way except bring a bead down the cording toward the weaving before anchoring the cord into its new slot.
Continue around the disk repeating the same process with the 2nd strand with beads.
Place an antiqued copper crimp end over all eight strands of cording then bring the crimp end toward the braid until you have about a 1/4 inch of braiding showing.
Pull the crimp end back up the strands just a little bit and then apply a dab of Pascofix® in the area where the crimp end will be permanently.
Slide the crimp end back into place, over the area where you applied the Pascofix. Using a pair of chain-nose pliers, crimp the center section of the crimp end to secure the braid.
Repeat for the other end of the braid then set the strand aside so the glue can cure.
Using a pair of round-nose pliers, and while holding the antiqued copper filigree square on a diagonal, slowly work the square into a tube.
Work from both sides of the square so the tube is rolled evenly.
Roll the square until there is a little flap of filigree remaining from the other corner; this will act as your anchor point for attaching the bracelet strands; the rolled tube will be the toggle bar for your clasp.
Measure a 13-inch length of antiqued copper chain. Fold the length of chain in half. Open a jumpring then place the center link of the chain as well as the hammered ring finding onto the jumpring. Close the jumpring securely. The hammered ring finding will be the toggle ring for your clasp.
Open a jumpring and put it on the last link of each length of chain as well as the center hole on the end of the filigree toggle bar; close the jumpring.
Thread onto one end of a 10-inch length of Accu-Flex® beading wire, one crimp tube and an Accu-Guard wire protector. Place the Accu-Guard over the toggle ring then thread the tail of Accu-Flex® through the crimp bead.
Using crimping pliers, crimp the crimp bead.
Using flush-cutters, trim any excess beading wire.
Thread on an assortment of antiqued copper beads until you have about 6-1/4 inches of beads strung.
Thread on a crimp tube and an Accu-Guard. Place the Accu-Guard over the center hole on the end of the filigree toggle bar then thread the tail of Accu-Flex® through the crimp bead.
Using crimping pliers, crimp the crimp bead. Using flush-cutters, trim any excess beading wire.
Once the ends of the woven cord are secure, trim the excess cording from each end. Open a jumpring and add it to the loop on one crimp end as well as the toggle ring. Close the jumpring. Add a jumpring to the other crimp end and connect it to the center hole on the filigree toggle bar.
Fold the remaining length of chain in half. Add a jumpring to the center link of chain then pass it through the hole on one end of the filigree toggle bar. Close the jumpring.
Repeat to attach the other end of the chain to the toggle ring. Close the jumpring.
This safety chain will work to keep the bracelet securely on your wrist.
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