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 Triple-Strand Necklace with Personalized Brass Focals and Drops, SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS and Chain 

Triple-Strand Necklace with Personalized Brass Focals and Drops, SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS and Chain
Design Idea D32M Add to Favorites

Time Woven Charms Necklace

-- Designer --

Tammy Honaman, Author, Jewelry-Making Expert and Educator, Exclusively for Fire Mountain Gems and Beads®

To learn more about Tammy Honaman, read her jewelry artist success story here

: : : Materials : : :

  • Bead, antiqued ''vermeil,'' 6x1mm rondelle (14 beads)
  • Bead, antiqued copper, 8x1.5mm star (1 bead)
  • Bead, Swarovski crystal, indicolite AB, 4mm round (5 beads)
  • Bead, Swarovski crystal, crystal volcano, 8mm marguerite lochrose flower (3 beads)
  • Charm, antiqued brass-finished ''pewter'' (zinc-based alloy), 28x11mm key (1 charm)
  • Component, antiqued brass-finished steel, 18x18mm single-sided filigree flower (3 components)
  • Component, antiqued gold-plated brass, 22mm single-sided round fancy flower with cutout design (3 components)
  • Component, antiqued gold-plated brass, 29mm single-sided filigree open round with 14mm center hole (2 components)
  • Link, antiqued brass-finished ''pewter'' (zinc-based alloy), 7mm puffed round (1 link)
  • Drop, Swarovski crystal, crystal red magma, 12x10mm wild heart pendant (2 drops)
  • Drop, Swarovski crystal, crystal red magma, 17x14mm wild heart pendant (1 drop)
  • Drop, antiqued brass, 17x16mm single-sided flat arch frame with rope edge, 14.5x12.5mm arch setting (2 drops)
  • Drop, brass, 23x13mm rectangle with 21x11mm rectangle setting (1 drop)
  • Drop, brass, 28x25mm single-sided rectangle with 23x20mm non-calibrated cabochon setting (1 drop)
  • Focal, brass, 32x18mm double-sided flat rectangle blank with 1.3mm hole (1 focal)
  • Focal, brass, 32x32mm double-sided flat square blank with (2) 4x2mm holes (1 focal)
  • Watch component mix, mixed metal, 0.5-23x18mm parts (1 watch component)
  • Brad, antiqued brass, 7x4mm flat head, 16 gauge (20 brads)
  • Headpin, antiqued brass-finished steel, 2 inch, 21 gauge (3 headpins)
  • Eyepin, antiqued brass-finished steel, 1-1/4 inch, 21 gauge (3 eyepins)
  • Jumpring, antiqued gold-plated brass, 6mm fancy round, 20 gauge (4 jumprings)
  • Jumpring, antiqued gold-plated brass, 8mm round, 16 gauge (15 jumprings)
  • Jumpring, antiqued gold-plated brass, 10mm twisted round, 16 gauge (2 jumprings)
  • Jumpring, antiqued brass, 10mm soldered round, 18 gauge (6 jumprings)
  • Clasp, hook-and-eye, antiqued gold-plated brass, 10x6mm flat (1 clasp)
  • Chain, antiqued brass-finished steel, 3x2mm flat cable link
  • Chain, antiqued brass-finished steel, 5x3mm patterned cable link
  • Chain, antiqued gold-plated brass, 5.5mm flat round with diamond cut-out
  • Chain, antiqued gold-plated brass, 8mm round
  • Wire, Wrapit, jeweler's bronze, dead-soft, round, 20 gauge
  • Sheet, mica, transparent, 5x3-inch rectangle (1 sheet)
  • Sheet, jeweler's bronze, half-hard with mirror finish, 6x6-inch square, 28 gauge (1 sheet)
  • Paper, cotton fiber, multicolored, 11x6 inch rectangle with single-sided swirl design (1 sheet)
  • Wax paste, Gilders Paste, patina
  • Wax paste, Gilders Paste, black
  • Top coat, DesignaSeal, clear gloss
  • Adhesive, Mod Podge Gloss-Lustré glue sealer
  • Jeweler's grade resin, ICE Resin, 2-part plunger, crystal clear
  • Glove, vinyl, latex-free, white, extra-large
  • Dapping block, wood, 3/4 to 2 inches, 6-1/4 x 4 inches overall
  • Mallet
  • Ball peen hammer
  • Fire block
  • Microtorch, butane, black, empty, 6x4-inch
  • Jeweler saw
  • Tool, saw blade, twelve assorted interchangeable sizes
  • Needle files
  • Hole punch pliers, EURO TOOL
  • Tool, steel, 3-3/4x3/4 inch square bench block
  • Pliers, hole-punch, EURO TOOL, stainless steel, 1.8mm round punch
  • Shear, metal sheet cutter, steel
  • Scissors 
  • Pliers, flat-nose 
  • Pliers, round-nose 
  • Pliers, chain-nose 
  • Pliers, flush-cutter 
  • Paintbrush
  • Marker, Sharpie®
  • Pictures
  • Paper towel
  • End of Materials List
    We all have family we don't ever want to forget. Many of whom we wish were still with us. To bring those who you love and those you never had a chance to meet closer to you, capture their images in charms using metal, mica and ICE Resin®.

    Trinket-Filled Focal

    Step 1
    Determine the size vessel needed to capture a few trinkets and choose which dapping depression will yield the correct size. Using a permanent marker, draw onto bronze metal sheet a suitable shape that is larger than the dapping depression, allowing at least 5-6mm extra all around. Using metal shears, cut along the mark.

    Place the cutout piece of bronze sheet onto a fire block. Ignite a butane torch and heat the metal until it glows. Allow the metal to cool to room temperature.
    Step 2
    Place the bronze sheet onto a dapping block over the depression. Place a dapping punch on top of the sheet and then, using a rawhide mallet, strike the dapping punch. Slowly work the sheet into the depression until it is the desired shape.

    Draw a shape around the perimeter of the dapped depression, allowing at least a 3mm border all the way around. Using metal shears or a jeweler's saw fitted with a saw blade, cut along the mark. Using a jeweler's file, file the edges of the metal to shape it more accurately and so the edges are smooth.

    Optional

    Step 3
    Use a paper towel to apply a layer of black Gilders Paste® to the surface of the dapped metal sheet. Apply a layer of patina Gilders Paste. Use a paintbrush to apply a layer of DesignaSeal to the surface to seal the finish. Allow the DesignaSeal to cure at least 30 minutes.

    Recommended: You can wear a latex-free glove to protect your hand while applying the Gilders Paste.
    Step 4
    Using flush-cutters, cut a 3- to 4-inch length of 20-gauge jeweler's bronze wire. Using round-nose pliers, shape the wire to form a bail.

    The bail shown was made by forming a loop in the middle of the wire, trimming the wire ends to be one inch past the loop on each side, then spiraling the ends of the wire toward the center. Place the bail onto the dapped metal where you want it to be, then place the point of a permanent marker into the center of the spiral so you transfer a dot to the dapped metal.

    Repeat for the other spiral. Using a 1.5mm hole punch, punch holes at the marks.
    Step 5
    Onto the mica sheet, using a permanent marker, draw a square (or other suitable shape) at least 3mm larger than the shape of the dapped metal. Using scissors, cut the mica sheet at the mark. Place the dapped metal face down onto the mica and then, using a permanent marker, place marks where the holes are on the dapped metal. Using the 1.25mm hole punch, punch holes at the marks.
    Step 6
    Line up the punched holes in both the dapped metal and the mica sheet and then, working from front to back, thread a brass brad through one hole so it passes through both layers. Thread onto the back of the brad, one loop of the bail and a brass flower spacer. Repeat the pattern in the other punched hole.

    Note: It's a little tricky to work with the assembly with two brads in place, but the second brad will help keep the pieces from shifting as you rivet the assembly together.

    Place the assembly face down onto a steel bench block. Press the layers together, eliminating any gaps. Trim one brad to about 2mm above the surface of the spacer. Using a ball peen hammer, strike the brad, working around the end so it flares out and secures the layers together.

    Repeat for the other brad.
    Step 7
    Place holes along the edge of the metal and mica then fill the cavity with trinkets. Place brads into each hole and rivet in place. Use scissors to trim the excess mica from around the dapped metal so the two are flush. File the edges of both so they are even and smooth. Set the trinket-filled pendant aside.

    Riveted Mica Picture Frame

    Step 8
    Using scissors, trim a picture to fit a brass rectangle. Using a paintbrush, apply a layer of Mod Podge® to the brass rectangle. Place a picture onto the surface and allow the Mod Podge to dry. Apply a layer of Mod Podge over the picture to seal it in place as well as seal the surface of the image.

    Using a 1.5mm hole punch, punch a hole over the existing hole in the rectangle to enlarge it enough to accommodate a brad. Place a hole opposite the first. Cut a piece of mica to match the size of the rectangle. Use a marker to transfer hole placement to the mica. Place holes at the marks using a 1.25mm hole punch.
    Step 9
    Position the rectangle onto a square brass blank. Place the point of a permanent marker over the hole on the rectangle so a mark transfers through to the square. Repeat for the other hole in the rectangle. Use the 1.5mm hole punch to punch holes at the marks. Line up all the pieces and place brads through each series of holes.
    Step 10
    Invert the assembly so it is face down onto a steel bench block. Press the layers together, eliminating any gaps. Trim one brad to about 2mm above the surface of the metal. Using a ball peen hammer, strike the brad, working around the end so it flares out and secures the layers together.

    Repeat for the other brad.

    Circle Photo Frame

    Step 11
    Using the ball end of a ball peen hammer, flatten the center of a brass filigree circle. Repeat for a second brass circle.
    Step 12
    Using a paintbrush, apply a thin layer of Mod Podge to a picture you want to use for your Circle Pendant; allow the Mod Podge to dry. Cut out the picture so it is a little larger than the opening of the brass circle. Place the picture face down onto a piece of mica. Apply a thin layer of Mod Podge to the back of the picture and so it extends onto the mica; allow the Mod Podge to dry.
    Step 13
    Position the mica between the two brass circles to determine placement. Punch a 1.25mm hole at 2 o'clock on the brass circle and so the hole is placed within a petal of the filigree circle. Use a permanent marker to transfer the location of the hole from the brass circle to the mica. Use the 1.25mm hole punch to punch a hole at the mark on the mica. Transfer the hole location onto the second brass circle then use the 1.25 hole punch to punch the hole.

    Repeat at 10 o'clock on the circle. Place brads through the holes in the assembly.

    Notes:
    • The 1.25mm hole punch is used with the filigree as it is only enlarging the opening to accommodate the brad; the 1.5mm hole punch might work, or it might make the hole too large. For a successful riveting, the hole needs to fit the diameter of the brad as closely as possible. If it's too large the brad will not rivet in place properly.
    • It's a little tricky to work with the assembly with two brads in place, but the second brad will help keep the pieces from shifting as you rivet the assembly together. If needed, place a piece of tape onto the second brad to hold it in place while you rivet the first brad.
    Step 14
    Invert the assembly so it is face down onto a steel bench block. Press the layers together, eliminating any gaps. Trim one brad to about 2mm above the surface of the metal. Using a ball peen hammer, strike the brad, working around the end so it flares out and secures the layers together.

    Repeat for the other brad.

    Punch a hole at the top center of the brass circle assembly, to be used later for hanging the pendant.

    ICE Resin-Filled Photo Frame

    Step 15
    Trim images or paper to fit inside the brass frames. Fill with the paper or images along with beads or other small items like watch parts. Following manufacturer's instructions, prepare a small batch of ICE Resin. Using a stir stick, drip ICE Resin into the pendants until just full; be careful to not overfill.

    Note: If the ICE Resin overflows, try to clean it up without disturbing the contents or allow to cure, then carefully use a sharp blade to trim the excess resin away.

    Allow the ICE Resin to cure overnight. If you'd like to add another layer to magnify the contents, allow the ICE Resin to cure three hours then apply a second layer, again, making sure to add slowly so you don't have a mess on your hands.

    Crystal Pendants

    Step 16
    Thread a Swarovski 8mm marguerite crystal volcano and an antiqued gold-plated brass 22mm fancy flower onto a headpin. Using a pair of round-nose pliers and flush-cutters, form a bail with the straight end of the headpin, creating a Swarovski 8mm marguerite crystal volcano and antiqued gold-plated brass 22mm fancy flower drop. Repeat to create a total of three Swarovski 8mm marguerite crystal volcano and antiqued gold-plated brass 22mm fancy flower drops.
    Step 17
    Thread a Swarovski 17x14mm wild heart crystal red magma onto an eyepin. Using a pair of chain-nose pliers, round-nose pliers and flush-cutters, form a simple loop on the straight end of the eyepin. Center the heart on the wire. Using chain-nose pliers, carefully bend the wire toward the top of the heart and so the loops are parallel creating a Swarovski 17x14mm wild heart crystal red magma drop.

    Open an antiqued gold-plated brass 8mm jumpring then thread it through two loops on the eyepin. Close the jumpring.

    Repeat to create two Swarovski 12x10mm wild heart crystal red magma drops.

    Creating the Necklace

    Step 18
    Using chain-nose pliers open the ring on one end of a 27-inch length antiqued gold-plated brass 8mm round chain. Thread the loop on the hook clasp and the last link on the end of each length of the 24-inch 5.5mm flat round with diamond cutout chain and 23-inch antiqued brass-finished steel 5x3mm patterned cable. Close the jumpring. Repeat to gather the other ends of the chain and the eye portion of the clasp. Close the jumpring.
    Step 19
    Using flush-cutters, cut a 6-inch length and three shorter varying lengths of antiqued brass-finished steel 3x2mm flat cable chain. Using chain-nose pliers open an antiqued gold-plated brass 8mm jumpring and attach the crystal heart pendants to the end of each length of chain. Using chain-nose pliers open a jumpring and pass the jumpring through the last link on each of the lengths of antiqued brass-finished steel 3x2mm flat cable chain gathering the chains together to create a cluster of hearts.
    Step 20
    Use jumprings to connect the pendants and cluster of hearts to the lengths of chain in a fun yet balanced pattern.
    : : : Additional Resources : : :
  • ''How To Use ICE Resin® '' how-to video and instructions
  • ''Creating an ICE Resin® Frame Pendant'' illustrated instructions
  • ''How to Use Gilders Paste®'' illustrated instructions
  • ''How to Use Hole-Punch Pliers'' how-to video and illustrated instructions
  • ''Making a Bail from a Headpin'' how-to video and instructions
  • ''Opening a Jumpring'' how-to video and illustrated instructions
  • End of Additional Resources

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