Bracelet with Fire Crackle Agate Gemstone Beads, Swarovski Crystal Beads and Wire Wrap


If your dead-soft wire has any kinks or is in tight rounds, pass the length of wire just once through the jaws of nylon jaw pliers. A polishing cloth may also be used for this purpose and removes tarnish at the same time.

Following the manufacturer's instructions, set up your coiling device on your work table with a C-clamp.

Forming the Coil

STEP 1
Coil the 20-gauge sterling silver dead-soft wire to 6 inches. Set the coil aside.

Note: You will use approximately 6 feet of wire to make a 6-inch coil on a 12-gauge rod or dowel.

Repeat Step 1, coiling 20-gauge sterling silver dead-soft wire to create two 3-inch coils.

Adding a Support Wire

STEP 2
Using the flush-cutters, cut an 11-inch length of 18-gauge half-hard sterling silver wire. Slide the 6-inch coil onto the 18-gauge wire and center it. Use a permanent marker to lightly mark 2-1/2 inches out from each end of the 11-inch length of 18-gauge wire.
STEP 3

With a pair of round-nose pliers and flat-nose pliers, form a spiral at the end of the 18-gauge wire, working in only up to the 2-1/2 inch mark.

Repeat for the other end of the 18-gauge wire, working this spiral in the opposite direction from the first.
STEP 4

With the nylon jaw pliers and also working with your hands, continue the spiral toward the center of the coil; stop coiling when you get near the middle.

Do the same at the other spiraled end. You will have a large spiraled "S" shape.

Forming the Orbiting Spiral

STEP 5

Fold this S-shape in half.

Using pliers and your fingers, begin to gently pull out the spirals, elongating (but not eliminating) the spiral effect.

Set the finished shape aside.

Note: If you wish to antique the sterling silver wire components, Liver of Sulfur or Patina Gel can be used prior to using the components in the finished design. Follow label directions and polishing practices.
STEP 6
Cut an 8-inch piece of 18-gauge half-hard sterling silver wire. Slide one 3-inch coil onto the 18-gauge wire and center it. Use a permanent marker to lightly mark 2-1/2 inches at each end of the 8-inch piece of 18-gauge wire.

Repeat Steps 3 - 5 to create smaller orbiting spirals.

Repeat Step 6 for the second 3-inch coil.
STEP 7
Cut 18 inches of the 18-gauge full-hard wire.

Set out your beads to slide onto this wire. In total, this design uses seven 14x10mm rondelle stone beads, six 10mm round stone beads and seven 8mm round Swarovski crystals. You can follow the pattern in the finished bracelet for placement of stone and crystal beads; this bracelet length fits a 7-8 inch wrist.

Assembling the Orbiting Spiral

STEP 8
Slide the hard wire through one spiral end of the component from Step 5. Add one 10mm stone bead and slide it up against the inside of the orbiting spiral. Add 5 larger stone rondelles and one 10mm stone bead then push them up against the inside of the spiral cap on the other end of the spiral.
STEP 9
Close three sterling silver jumprings.

Thread onto the 18-gauge wire the following components: one 10mm Swarovski crystal, three closed jumprings and one 10mm Swarovski crystal.

Repeat Step 9 on the other side of the orbiting spiral.

Center this orbiting spiral and its beads on the 18-gauge wire and set aside.

Forming Two Smaller Orbit Spirals

Side orbit spirals are half the length of the center spiral and use fewer beads.
STEP 10
Repeat Step 8, sliding an orbiting spiral on one side of the center galaxy, adding beads in the order of your choice, or based on the pattern in the finished bracelet.

Repeat Step 10 to add an orbiting spiral and beads on the other side of the center spiral galaxy.

Forming the Clasp

With the strength of full-hard sterling silver, a formed clasp can be made with confidence using the 18-gauge wire core.
STEP 11
Using the 6mm section on the barrel of the forming pliers, form a double loop in the wire extending from one end of the bracelet; the loop should look similar to a split ring. Use the flush-cutters to trim any excess wire once the loops are complete.

The double thickness of wire will make a strong loop for securing the hook of the clasp.

Note: This next decorative detail will also add length to the bracelet. If you don't need the extra length you may want to skip to Step 13. If you need more length beyond what this offers, consider repeating the loops and bead pattern.
STEP 12
Using round-nose pliers or the 4mm section on the barrel of the forming pliers, form a double loop after the last bead on the unfinished side of the bracelet. Thread on a Swarovski crystal then form another pair of double loops to secure the bead in place.
STEP 13
Place the 6mm section on the forming pliers above the last set of loops and form a hook in the wire. Once the hook is complete, use the round-nose pliers to form a simple loop in the opposite direction of the hook to finish the end of the wire; make sure the final loop is complete and closed. Use flush-cutters to trim any excess wire.

Optional: Hammering the sterling silver clasp is not necessary for strength since it is full-hard tempered wire, yet it will give dimension to the clasp.

Place the clasp onto a steel-bench block or anvil and hammer the clasp carefully until you are happy with the finish.

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