When threading needles, instead of bringing the thread to the needle, hold the very tip of the thread between thumb and forefinger and lower the eye of the needle onto the thread. I find this technique much less frustrating.
When threading a small needle for beading seed beads, the one thing that I find works is to take a small drop of clear fingernail polish and dab it on the end of the thread. Then take your forefinger and thumb removing the excess polish and making a fine point tip on the thread.
I keep a chunk of regular wax around not just for keeping my thread from fraying, but heat it up just right, thread the wax like a bead, and it's a great bead-stopper! Just make sure it's cooled off enough not to melt to your needle!
If you don't have a big eye beading needle, then just use a length of soft wire. Put your thread through one end then squeeze together, put a dab of super glue to the tip of the other end to hold the two pieces. It works perfectly for me. Thanks.
When making a necklace using wire/coated thread, use a plastic earnut as a temporary end (as a placeholder). I found this great when seed beading--for the beginning tail and then when you put down/pick up your project again.
To get a closer cut when finishing a project and cutting the string, I like to use nail clippers rather than scissors. They cut closer and more easily than scissors without leaving any excess thread showing.
This tip is in response to the question of the day about knots getting pulled into beads while disassembling a necklace.
Another method of avoiding pulling the knots into the bead is to use a craft knife or utility knife to cut the knots away rather than scissors. The thinner width of the blade will produce less pull against the cord than a pair of scissors.
I use a lot of translucent line to string with. I don't know if this is new but I take a bright colored fingernail polish and dip the end of the line into it and allow it to dry and then when I am stringing I can see the end of my line better. Paint would also work.
If you are having difficulty threading your needle, try turning the needle upside down, so you are threading from the other side of the hole. Most needle holes are punched, so one side of the hole will always be smoother than the other!
I have just started beading, and was getting frustrated trying to get stringing material on the needle. By the time the thread went through the needle, the bead wouldn't slide on because the thread was too thick where it overlapped through the eye of the needle. I twisted the thread and applied some glue to the end so it acted like a self-needle when it dried and that solved the problem.
An easy way to melt your wax when using to coat thread is to hold the corner for a few seconds against the openings in a metal lampshade (you don't want to actually touch the hot bulb). The heat from the light bulb does a great job of melting the wax. Place the thread with your finger on top of the wax so it sinks into the wax and push some of the melted wax onto the thread.
When you feel like your thread can go no further and you only have about 3 to 4 inches left, stop making fringe. Thread a new length of thread onto a new needle. Bring the needle through the next bead in the core. Pull the thread through until you have a 3-inch tail. Knot the new tail and the old thread together. Add one more fringe using your old thread; pass the needle through the next core bead, then knot the old thread and your new working thread together.
As the size 8 seed beads begin to fill with thread, you may find it's harder to get your needle through - pull the needle with the chain-nose pliers if you need help.
When you're done adding fringe, end your thread by working back through the core to the last thread tail you have. Make a surgeon's knot with the two thread, then continue passing the thread through a few size 8 beads, making half-hitch knots as you go.
When you're done, trim all thread ends. Place the crimp covers over the crimp beads and then close them gently with chain-nose pliers.