Single-Strand Necklace with Charoite Gemstone Cabochon, Crystal Passions® Drop and Wirework

Take a scrap piece of 28 gauge wire and measure the circumference of the cabochon. A 14mm x 10mm stone is approx 1 5/8” around. Divide that number by 4 you get about 3/8”. That’s how far apart we want to make the prongs for the prong setting. 

Cut a 20 gauge piece of Sterling silver 10” long. Fold the wire in half & press the centre tight. With a 5mm wide pair of pliers, bend the wire away from itself at a 90 degree angle. Repeat for the other side. That’s the first “prong”.

Note: The width of the pliers is used to determine the height of the prong. If your stone is a low dome cabochon, use a pair of 3mm pliers to make the prongs. You can make a “test” prongto see what height your prongs should be. Make sure not to keep pressing the prongs as you can break them at the bend. 

With a permanent marker, mark 3/8” from the 90 degree angles on each wire.Line a pair of 5mm tipped flat pliers, after the mark just made, & bend the wire up at a 90degree angle. Fold the wire in half & press the fold to finish the prong. Repeat for last prong. There’s a total of 3 prongs. Make sure all prongs are straight & tight. 

Cut a piece of 16 gauge Sterling silver 1/2 round wire & an18 gauge Sterling silver round wire the same length as the prong wire. Mine is 9” long. Line up the 16g 1/2 round(with the flat side facing up) followed by the 18g round below it. These will be lashed together.

Cut a 5’ piece of 28 gauge Fine silver wire. Leave a 1” tail & make 2 wraps around the middle wire to secure it. With all 3 wires lined up, lash all three together 2x before the first “prong”.

At the prong, lash the bottom 2 wires together until you get to the other side of the prong, then go back to lashingall 3 wires together to the next “prong”. Repeat until the last “prong”.Finish with 2 wraps over all 3 wires.

Start to make a “U” shape in the weave with the middle prong being centred at the bottom edge of the arch. Keep checking the cabochon in the frame to get the right sizing. Once all 3 prongs are lined up, arch the ends of the wires to the top of the stone then point them straight up so they lie side by side.

The weave won’t be as tall as the cabochon. Trim off the 1” 28 gauge wire tail. 

Curl the prongs towards the centre of the setting. Slide the cabochon into the setting, down through the top opening. Make sure the stone fits tight. If it doesn’t curl the prongs more.

Holding the stone in place, press both sides of the frame, with a pair of pliers, so it fits tightly around the stone.

Rest your pliers on top of the stone & press the 2 middle 18g wires tightly together forming a triangle shape above the stone. Straighten both of thesewires so they point straight up. Arch the 2 wires on either side away from the centre wires. Make sure the bottom prong and the top 18g wires line up. Adjust the top wires until they do. The prong setting is done. 

Starting where the 18g wires meet at that top of the stone, measure & mark 1/2” & 1” on both arms. Where the wires meet, on top of the cabochon, bend the wires away from the centre at a 45 degree angle.

At the 1/2” mark bend the wires 45 degrees towards the centre of the Bail. At the last mark use you pliers to press the wires together to get them to point straight up side by side.

To finalize the “bail shape”, the 1/2” marks should be 4mm apart. Take the time to sharpen each bend & make sure the bail is straight & in line with the centre of the stone. You can also work harder this area with a hammer and bench block or running your fingers (or pliers) up & down the wires. Doing this step will make it easier to keep the frame from collapsing or shifting. The finished bail, once folded, will be about 1/2” tall. This is a diamond shaped Bail.

Have the back of the pendant facing up. With the attached 28g wire, do the figure 8 weave between the two wires. (starting right where the wires meet above the stone) Make sure to keep the frame shape solid. Take your time. Push your work back onto itself after every 2 sets so there’s no gapping. Continue this weave from the very first mark to the last mark on the wires.

Cut a 5” piece of 18 gauge round Sterling silver wire. Measure and mark centre. (2-1/2”) Fold wire to 90 degree angle. Put your pliers in the fold & press on each side to make the fold a crisp corner. 

You’re making a kite shaped frame. Measure & mark 5/8” & 1-1/8” down each arm. The first mark is to to be bent toward the centre of the frame at about a 90 degree angle. 

The second mark points straight up. Keep going back & forth, with a pair of pliers, in the bends to make them nice and crisp.

Measure across the centre of the frame horizontally from bend to bend. The width should be about 3/4” wide. The “kite frame” should be 1” tall with the ends of the wires pointing straight up. Gently adjust so everything is even. Set the pendant back in the space.

Each end of the “kite frame” sits on either side of the “bail frame”. Make a tight loop clockwise on the right side & counterclockwise on the left at the original 1-1/8” marks made earlier. Finish it so it points out to the sides.

Hook each arm UNDER the 1/2 round & 20g wire on each side. Slide the frame down so it sits over the cabochon.

To attach, wrap each “kite frame” wire around the 20g & the half round wires twice on each side. Do this slowly. Make sure to secure the kite frame by pulling each loop tightly, with pliers, as you go. Be careful not to distort the frame. Push the loops together tightly & slide them down the 2 wires so the frame touches the top of the cabochon. Bring the 18g wires back to the front & trim them off on top of the 2 wires. Press each spot to flatten & secure.

Centre the “bail” section on a 3-4mm round nosed pliers or small looping pliers. Fold the bail over the pliers so it now points straight down & is centred over the middle of the stone.

Arch each end of the “bail” wires to the top “prong” on each side. Lash the wire around the outside of the “kite frame” then up between the stone & the “kite frame” ABOVE the loop just made. Gently pull each side tight. Wrap around to the back, trim off excess wire & press to secure. Repeat for both sides.

With the attached 28 gauge wire, continue the Figure 8 weave to fill in any space between the bail and the top of the cabochon. (If needed) Pull 28g to the back of pendant & wrap around a side of the “kite frame” 3x. Trim off excess wire on the front of the pendant.

For the 1/2 round wires, these loops will be shorter then the woven bail height. (to protect it from chains rubbing against the fine wire.) Put the round nosed pliers in the bail & fold the 16g 1/2 rounds so they point down. Make the loops about 3-4mm below the top of the “woven bail”. 

On the 20 gauge wires by the bail, wrap the beginning of each side around a 4mm round nosed plier. Point the wire straight down.

With the 1/2 round wire, arch it to follow the “bail” wire down to the corner of the “kite frame” on both sides. Repeat this step with the 20 gauge wire making sure each new wire sits above the last.

Wrap the 1/2 round, on both sides, around the the “kite frame” & come up BELOW the “Bail” wire.

Wrap the 20g wires around the “kite frame” coming up ABOVE the 1/2 round.

Turn the pendant so the bottom of the “kite frame” is now pointing up.

Make shallow 1/2 moon shapes, with the 1/2 round wires, so the ends will secure to the opposite side of the “kite frame”. 

OPTIONAL TIP - I have added a 5mm jump ring, right now, to the bottom point of the “kite frame”. I put it there in case I want to add a dangle to the pendant at the end. If you choose not to add the dangle it can be removed. Right now it’s a place holder.

Trim the 1/2 rounds down to 1/4” past the frame. On the left side, secure the 1/2 round to the frame by wrapping the end around the outside of the right side of the frame. The end wraps over then around the frame & ends BELOW this wire. Trim off excess & press end into the frame to secure.

Please note - when looking at the pendant, bail pointing up, the left side bottom wires go OVER the right side

For the 20g wire, follow ABOVE the 1/2 round. Wrap the end over & around the frame with the end wrapping ABOVE the 20g wire. You may need to slide the 1/2 round down the frame to get it to sit above it.

Repeat the same process for the other side but these wires will go ON TOP of the previous wires. Trim off excess wire and press with pliers to secure. 

Double check every secured wire. Check to make sure the bail & the bottom of the pendant line up. You can choose to put the chain through either the 20g bail wire or the 1/2 round bail wire. Add more wires or weaving wherever you like to make a more elaborate creation. If you’re not antiquing the piece, you can choose to add a dangle to the jump ring or remove it now if you’re not.