Bracelet with Leather Scraps, Chainmaille and Antiqued Brass Eyelets

"Layers of materials and textures inspire me. Figuring out how they work together and how best to put them together is always the fun part for me. When the tilapia leather and eyelets came into my world they inspired this design." - Tammy Honaman
Using scissors, cut your leather shapes. The sizes of the shapes shown in this design are:
  • Main leather base:
    • 3-1/2 inches x 1-7/8 inches
  • Purple middle layer:
    • 2-1/4 inches x 1-1/8 inches; rough cut and a little irregular
  • Tilapia:
    • 2-1/2 inches at its longest and 1-3/8 inch at its shortest x 1-1/2 inches
  • End bars:
    • 1-5/8 inches long x 5/8 inch wide
Determine where on the tilapia leather you want to anchor it to the next layer below. Set the rotary hole punch at the 3/32 inch punch then place holes in the determined locations.
Place the tilapia leather over the purple middle layer. Using the point of an awl, mark the hole placement from the tilapia onto the purple leather.

Using the rotary hole punch, punch holes in the purple leather at the marks.
Place the purple leather middle layer onto the main leather base. Using the tip of an awl, transfer the hole placement from the purple leather onto the base leather.

Using the rotary hole punch, punch holes in the base leather at the marks.
Place a 1/8 inch eyelet, facing up, into one of the holes on the tilapia (also facing up) so the finished edge of the eyelet is on top of the tilapia. Add the purple leather and base leather layer to the same eyelet so the hole placement for all layers matches up. Fit the eyelet/rivet tool with the 1/8 eyelet setting then position the eyelet/rivet tool into position on the eyelet. Press the handles to secure the eyelet.

Tip: When using the tool to add eyelets or rivets, I find I’m looking at the back side of the material. The tool is actually set up so the top of the eyelet rests in what is considered the "eyelet bottom setting--EB"--this setting is what keeps the finished-eyelet edge factory perfect. The "eyelet top--ET" is the setting placed against the back side of the materials and what makes the eyelet bottom perfect after securing it to the materials.

Repeat adding eyelets to each of the punched holes.
Repeat punching holes and placing eyelets for decorative purposes using the 5/64 inch hole punch and the 3/32 eyelet settings.
Punch six equally spaced 3/32 inch holes along both short edges of the base leather. Add a 1/8 inch eyelet to each hole.
Repeat placing five equally spaced holes and eyelets along one long edge of each end bar.

Place a center hole and eyelet on the other long edge of each end bar.
Create a European 4-in-1 section of chainmaille, six rings long.

Repeat to create two sections of chainmaille.
Put an 8mm jumpring in each of the six holes on each end of the base and the five holes on the end of each end bar.
Use jumprings to connect one side of one section of chainmaille to the eyelets along the edge of the base leather.
Use jumprings to connect the other side of the chainmaille section to the jumprings on the end bar.

Design Tip: I found that I wanted more structure to the chainmaille section so I added 6mm jumprings to the center row of the chainmaille created in Step 8. I also added a 6mm jumpring to the top and bottom rings of the chainmaille section when adding it to the base leather.
Repeat to connect the other side of the base leather to the other end bar.
Use a jumpring to connect a lobster claw clasp to the single hole on one of the end bars.

Create a length of jumpring chain. Use a pair of jumprings to connect this length of chain to the single eyelet on the other end bar.

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The pieces featured in the Gallery of Designs are copyrighted designs and are provided for inspiration only. We encourage you to substitute different colors, products and techniques to make the design your own.

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