Bracelet with Seed Beads

by Claudia Chase, reprinted with permission from the Mirrix Loom Company

Checkerboard Bracelet

: : : Materials : : :

Warping your Mirrix Loom

Warp Coil size: 18 dents (a 14 or 16 dent coil will also work)
Number of warps: 19
Number of rows: 115

You can use any of the Mirrix Looms to create this lovely bracelet. This piece can be woven with or without the shedding device. It's your choice. Try Both!

These instructions are for a bracelet 7-1/4 inches in diameter when on your wrist. Increase or decrease by four rows to add or subtract a quarter inch from the size of your bracelet. Make sure that there are five rows after the button hole.

You will want to reduce your loom's height to minimize the amount of warp you will use. If you have a larger Mirrix Loom, this can be accomplished by using the extra warping bar. Use the 18 dent coil for this project if possible. The 14 or 16 dent coils will also be adequate. You will need to have 19 warp threads.

To Begin Weaving

Place ten piles of the different colored cylinder beads on a cloth in front of your loom.
Cut a length beading thread about a yard long. Tie the end of this thread to the bottom of the left threaded rod on your loom using a slip knot so that you can easily release it and weave it back into your piece later. Your first two rows will be a solid color of your choice and like all subsequent rows will comprise 18 beads. The third row will comprise the three beads of the color used in the first two rows, three beads of a contrasting color (one of these colors should be matte and the other glossy), three beads of first color, three beads of contrasting color, three beads of first color and three beads of contrasting color. Repeat the pattern of this row two times. In order to create the checkerboard pattern, for the next three rows exchange the placement of your colors.
For the next section, keep one of the original colors and replace the second color with a new color (remember that one of the colors always needs to be matte and the other needs to be glossy) and repeat the nine row pattern to create a checkerboard.
For the next section, keep the new color and replace the old color for nine rows. At row 102, you will need to create a button hole. Continue weaving with your current thread, but only go to column nine (please see white line in enclosed pattern). Weave this section of only nine columns for eight rows. Start a new thread to weave the eight columns on the other side of the bracelet. Weave that side for eight rows. End one of the threads and continue weaving a straight row of checkerboard for two rows. Weave two rows of a solid color. There will be 111 rows of checkerboard and four rows of solid color, two on each end of the bracelet.
Next you need to weave in a header and a footer with the silk thread. Cut the thread in half. Thread a blunt nose tapestry needle. You will be weaving a half inch of this silk on either end of the bracelet. Using the needle, go under and over every other thread (or pairs of threads, if you have used the shedding device), then reverse direction and go under the threads you went over and over the threads you went under. After you have woven a half inch, sew both ends of the silk thread into the woven part so it does not ravel.

When you've finished weaving your header and footer, loosen the tension on your loom and slip out the warping bar. Lay your piece flat and trim the ends so that you have at least four inches left to work with. Tie overhand knots with warp pairs. When you've tied all the knots, trim the warp as close as you can without allowing the knots to be undone. Fold the header (or footer) at the seam where the header and beads meet. Turn the knots under so that they are buried. Carefully sew this header down so that you knots are buried and it looks neat. Do the same with the footer. This will be the back of your bracelet. You want to make this hem as sturdy and neat as possible. Make sure that you avoid covering the button hole.
In order to add a picot edge to the sides of the bracelet, string a workable length of beading thread (a yard) and sew it through the beads at one end of the bracelet in order to firmly attach it. You will pass your needle through the last bead at the edge of the bracelet, pick up three seed beads (one 15, one 11, one 15) and then pass back through the next edge bead. Pass your needle through the next bead so that you are once again working on the edge of the bracelet. String three more seed bead and pass back through next bead. Continue this way until you have come to the end of the bracelet.

If you have left over beading thread, work your way back to the other side of the bracelet and repeat this procedure until you've reached the far end. If you have only a short length of beading thread, string a new piece and firmly attach to bracelet. This edging is very attractive as well as reinforcing your bracelet and disguising the warp threads on the side of the bracelet.

The ''Button'' will be Created Using Peyote Stitch

Use a cylinder bead color of your choice to make a flat peyote piece that you will sew into a cylinder.
String 12 cylinder beads. Make the piece 10 rows wide. Zip the first and last rows together to form a tube. Sew the tail back into the bead work. Use the left over thread to sew to the sixth bead in one of the rows. You will be sewing this button onto the bracelet at a point that creates the best fit for you. String up three cylinder beads, sew onto bracelet, thread three cylinder beads, sew back through button.

Wear and enjoy!

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