Ring with Sterling Silver Beads and Wire and Seed Beads
-- Designer --
Tammy Honaman, Author, Jewelry-Making Expert and Educator, Exclusively for Fire Mountain Gems and Beads®To learn more about Tammy Honaman, read her jewelry artist success story here
: : : Materials : : :
- Bead, sterling silver, 2.5mm seamless-look round
- Seed bead, Delica, glass, opaque metallic rainbow light bronze, #11 round
- Seed bead, Delica, glass, transparent luster rainbow grey blue, #11 round
- Bezel cup, sterling silver, solid back, 20mm round
- Wire, sterling silver, dead-soft, round, 14 gauge
- Wire, sterling silver, 8.5x2.5mm with fancy gallery floral pattern, 20 gauge
- Jeweler's grade resin, ICE Resin 2-part formula, crystal clear
- Saw blade, twelve assorted interchangeable sizes
- Rotary grinding and polishing set
- Rotary tool accessories
- Hammer, ball peen
- Mallet, rawhide with pine wood handle
- Ring mandrel, steel
- Table vise, steel and iron
- Steel hole punch
- Ring sizer, chrome plated
- Tweezers, steel, 6-1/2x1 inches with fiber grip
- Shear, metal sheet cutter, steel, 18 gauge
- Jeweler saw
- Pliers, round-nose
- Pliers, flat-nose
- Pliers, flush-cutters
These ring bands are held together with a wire rivet. Riveting is a technique that can be used to bring layers of metal or other materials together--the key is making the right size hole for the rivet, in this case, a piece of wire. Create a simple band of gallery wire or add a bezel to the mix. Fill the bezel with special papers, charms and beads for a personal touch, then top it all off with ICE Resin® to hold the items in space and time.
|To determine the size of the ring, slip a ring from the ring sizer onto the finger you are making the ring for. Establish the size that fits comfortably.
Tip: Wider ring bands may require an increase in the size ring you make. Before riveting, try the formed band on your finger to be certain (after Step 2).
|Wrap the gallery wire around the ring mandrel at the size demarcation on the mandrel that matches the ring size you established in Step 1. Have a nice overlap, at least 6mm. This will be for both decorative and functional purposes for riveting.|
|Using the shears, cut the wire at the designated spot. You can cut straight across or trim the corners for a more rounded end (this will be the part of the band that is visible).|
|Insert a sanding drum into the rotary tool. Sand the cut end of the wire until smooth. Sand the other end of the wire as well--this is the end that will be closest to your finger, so pay close attention to the finish, you'll want it to be smooth.
Continue to use the rotary tool, using progressively finer grits of sanding drums, the pink polishing points and cotton buffs, until you are pleased with the finish on the ends of the wire.
|Place the wire into the side of the steel hole punch with the smaller hole punch. Center the dot under the hole punch. Twist the handle of the hole punch until the punch passes through the wire and makes the hole.|
Repeat Step 6 to make the second hole on the band.
|If adding a bezel cup to your ring, place a mark in the center of the bezel cup and Repeat Step 6 to make a hole.|
|Using the rotary tool, sand off any burrs that might be left behind after making the holes in the wire and the bezel cup.|
|If adding a bezel cup to your ring, reshape the band at this time. To reshape, Re-fit the band to the mandrel. Use the rawhide mallet to shape the band so it is round and so the holes are lined up properly.|
|Check the end of the 14-gauge wire and make sure it has a flush or blunt-cut end. Use the flush-cutters to trim, if necessary. Place the wire into the vise so the blunt-cut end is sticking above the jaws of the vise by about 1/2 inch.
Using the ball-peen hammer, strike the end of the wire, as if drawing the wire out from the center to the side. Repeat all around the tip of the wire, and then around again until you can feel you have established a head on the end of the wire, like a small nail head.
|Using the flush-cutters, cut about a 1/2 inch off the end of the wire. Working from the bottom layer toward the top, with the rivet head resting against the inside of the band, insert the wire through the two holes in the band.
Insert the wire through the bezel cup, if you've chosen to add one to your ring.
|Make sure all of the components are pressed tightly together. If you have any space between the layers the rivet will not work properly. Using the fine-tipped marker, draw a line on the wire about 2mm above the last layer of metal in the assembly.
Using the flush-cutters, trim the wire on the mark, leaving a blunt-cut end.
|Place the assembly onto the ring mandrel. Make sure everything is lined up properly and that you are pleased with the placement of all the parts. Using the ball-peen hammer, strike the end of the wire as you did in Step 11 until the wire is flush with the last layer of metal in the assembly. Do not strike so hard you damage the band or the inside of the bezel cup.|
|Use the points and buffs to finish the inside of the band and to polish all the surfaces of the metal.|
|If filling the bezel with paper, place the ring upside down onto the piece of paper. Draw a line around the perimeter of the bezel cup.
Cut the shape out with a good pair of scissors. Trim accordingly, then insert into the bezel cup.
If necessary, use the rotary tool points and buffs to clean up any ICE Resin that may have spilled onto the band.
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