Ring with Swarovski Crystal Beads, Sterling Silver Component and Wirework
-- Designer --
Sandra Lupo, Metalsmith and Instructor and Swarovski crystal AmbassadorTo learn more about Sandra Lupo, read her jewelry artist success story here
: : : Materials : : :
- Bead, Swarovski crystal, crystal red magma, 10mm marguerite lochrose flower (1 bead)
- Bead, Swarovski crystal, fern green, 4mm round (1 bead)
- Bead, Swarovski crystal, crystal clear, 12.5mm ring (1 bead)
- Bead, Swarovski crystal and silver-plated brass, Siam, 4mm rondelle (2 bead)
- Bead, silver-plated brass, 2mm smooth round (1 bead)
- Component, sterling silver, 20mm flower, no hole (2 components)
- Headpin, sterling silver, 3-inch with 1.5mm ball, 22 gauge (1 headpin)
- Stick pin, silver-plated brass, 3-inch with head, 18 gauge (1 stick pin)
- Wire, sterling silver, half-hard, round, 22 gauge
- Wire, sterling silver, half-hard, round, 24 gauge
- Lindstrom pliers set
- Pliers, curved-nose
- Ring mandrel, aluminum
- Hole punch pliers, EURO TOOL
- Polishing cloth, Moonshine
- Polishing paper, blue, 1,200 grit, 5x5 inch square
- Tool, micro-mesh sanding pads, 2x2-inch square, 1500-12000 grit
- Lortone Model 3A rotary rock and jewelry tumbler
- Rotary tumbler shot mix
- Microtorch, butane
Finding the Center of the Flat Flower Component
|Find the center of a flat flower component by drawing a line with a clear precise ruler and fine tip marker, working from the center edge of one petal to the center edge of its opposite petal. Continue to connect all petals to their opposite petals. Do this for both flat flower components.|
Alternate Measuring Technique:
Use a digital caliper to determine the exact width of the flat flower from one petal edge to its opposite petal edge. This flat flower measures 20mm, so the length should be halved and marked at 10mm. Mark both flowers at this center measurement.
|Position the "punch" of a pair of hole punch pliers over the center mark of one flower. Compress the handles to punch through the metal. Repeat for the second flower.|
Polishing the Drilled Flat Flowers
Raising the Petals on the Flat Flower Components
|Mark each petal of one flower at its base with a straight line. Repeat this for the second flat flower. Place a petal of one flat flower, at the mark, evenly within the jaws of a pair of flat-nose pliers. Turn the pliers enough to raise the petal upward 90 degrees.|
Repeat for each of the remaining five petals on the flower.
Repeat the process for the second flower, raising each petal upward to only 45 degrees.
Final Polish in a TumblerFor the shiniest polish, toss the flowers into the tumbler with steel shot and soapy water to remove measuring marks or if the flat-nose pliers created any scratches or dulling of the finish.
Forming the Wire Coil to Create the Ring Shank
|Use a 1mm diameter steel mandrel to wind a wire coil of 24-gauge half-hard sterling silver wire. Set aside.
Tip: A 3-inch 1mm stick pin is as stiff as a mandrel and will work well to properly form the coil. The coil should be 2 inches long for a size 4 pinky ring.
Stacking the Swarovski crystal
|Thread onto the ball-tip headpin, in this order:
|Place the stacked ball-tip pin through the flat flower with 90-degree raised petals, then add the flat flower with 45-degree raised petals. Tighten up the stack and add:
Forming the Shank
|Use a pair of chain-nose pliers to make a 90-degree bend in the ball-tip pin immediately below the 2mm silver-plated round bead.|
Thread the 2-inch wire coil onto the ball-tip pin and up against the bend in that pin.
Place the coil and stacked pin onto the ring mandrel at the size 4 mark. Form the ring shank around the mandrel and bring it up to meet itself.
Hint: You may need to remove the formed shank from the ring mandrel for the shank wire to meet itself.
Securing the Ring Shank
|With a pair of chain-nose or bent-nose pliers, make a bend in the remaining straight wire of the ring shank, about 1/4 inch.
Wrap that bend around the ring base directly under the 4mm silver-plated rondelle and the 2mm silver-plated round bead to form a tight wrap.
Hint: The single 2mm silver-plated round bead serves as an anchor for the 1/4 inch wire wrap.
Use the bent-nose pliers to reach into this tight area to squeeze the end wire tightly under the ring base, as you would when forming a wrapped loop.
|Place the ring shank back onto the ring mandrel to reshape, if necessary. Polish using the Moonshine polishing cloth.|
: : : Additional Resources : : :
- ''Tumbling and Polishing Jewelry and Stones with a Tumbler''video how-to and illustrated instructions
- ''Forming Wire Coils'' how-to video and instructions
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