Multi-Strand Necklace with Copper Sheet, Jeweler's Bronze Sheet and Metal Chain
-- Designer --
Tammy Honaman, Author, Jewelry-Making Expert and Educator, Exclusively for Fire Mountain Gems and Beads®To learn more about Tammy Honaman, read her jewelry artist success story here
: : : Materials : : :
- Bead, copper with antiqued copper finish, 8x2mm flower rondelle (1 bead)
- Link, antiqued copper-plated brass, 20x20mm single-sided diamond (1 link)
- Brad, copper, 7x4mm flat head, 16 gauge (2 brads)
- Brad, antiqued brass, 7x4mm flat head, 16 gauge (7 brads)
- Jumpring, antiqued copper-plated brass, 6mm round, 18 gauge (2 jumprings)
- Jumpring, antiqued gold-plated brass, 6mm twisted round, 16 gauge (4 jumprings)
- Jumpring, antiqued gold-plated brass, 8mm twisted round, 16 gauge (3 jumprings)
- Clasp, toggle, antiqued brass-finished ''pewter'' (zinc-based alloy), 16mm round (1 clasp)
- Chain, brass-finished steel, 2.2mm cable
- Chain, antiqued brass-plated steel, 5x3mm twisted lightweight cable link
- Chain, antiqued copper-plated brass, 5x3.5mm cable
- Chain, antiqued gold-plated brass, 8mm round
- Sheet, jeweler's bronze, half-hard with mirror finish, 6x6-inch square, 28 gauge
- Sheet, copper, half-hard with mirror finish, 6x6-inch square, 28 gauge
- Embosser folder, QuicKutz, blue, 5-3/4 x 4-1/4 inch rectangle with flower designs, A2 series
- Embossing tool, Epic Six QuicKutz, plastic and steel
- Wax paste, Gilders Paste, silver
- Ball peen hammer
- Needle files
- Tool, micro-mesh sanding pads, 2x2-inch square, 1500-12000 grit
- Jeweler saw
- Tool, saw blade, twelve assorted interchangeable sizes
- Shear, Lindstrom, stainless steel and plastic, black and blue, 5-3/4 inches with 21mm shear length
- Bench block, steel, 2-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 3/4 inch square
- C-clamp set, powder-coated steel, red, 1-inch to 4-3/4 inch
- Pliers, wire wrapping
- Pliers, hole-punch, EURO TOOL, stainless steel, 1.8mm round punch
- Hole punch pliers, EURO TOOL
- Pliers, chain-nose
- Pliers, flush-cutter
- Pliers, flat-nose
- Pliers, round-nose
Marker, fine point
|Sketch an angel design onto a piece of paper. Draw a border around the perimeter of the design. Copy the design 3 to 4 times.
Cut out one drawing following the outline of the border, which will be the pattern to use when cutting out the metal sheet. Using another copy cut out the outline of the angel. Repeat to cut out patterns for the dress and the hair and wings. If you have additional layers in your sketch, cut them out from one of the remaining copies.
|Apply a light coating of glue to the back of the patterns. Apply the patterns to the metal sheets, choosing an alternate metal sheet for each layer. Using a jeweler's saw or metal shears, cut the metal sheets following the patterns.
Note: The protective film on the metal sheets is left in place to protect the finish while the pieces are readied for assembly.
|Optional: To cut out any open areas in your design, like the space between the angel's arm and the horn in the design shown, use a hole punch to cut out a small hole from within the area being cut away. Undo the saw blade, thread the saw blade through the hole, retighten the blade in the frame then saw out the section in the pattern to create the opening.|
|Using jeweler's files, file the edges of the cut-outs as well as the edges within the openings.|
|Emboss the dress using the Epic™ embossing tool and embossing folder of your choice. Using the oval hole punch, punch a detail along the edge of the dress, creating holes that will show the color of the metal below once the angel is assembled.|
|Using the wire-wrapping pliers center the copper-plated diamond link onto the larger barrel of the pliers. Squeeze the plier handles to secure the link in place then bend the corners down and around the barrel to form a bail.|
|Assemble all of the layers of the angel to get an idea of where you will want to place brads to connect the layers together. Using a fine-tipped marker draw marks on the top layers where the brads will be placed (in the angel design shown, the top layers are the bronze dress, hair and wings, the copper horn, and the top of the first bronze layer where the bail will be placed).|
|Using the circular hole punch, punch holes where you placed marks on the metal.|
|Reassemble the pieces and then, using the marker and the holes already punched as your guide, draw marks on the next layer below where the holes will need to be punched.
It is important that the holes line up well for riveting.
Repeat punching holes at the marks in all the layers, making sure the holes all line up properly.
If needed, use the files to remove any burs the hole punch left behind.
Peel off the protective coating on the metal sheets.
|Assemble the layers and place a brad through one hole, passing through all layers. Turn the assembly upside down. Trim the brad to about 2mm above the last layer. Using the ball peen hammer, tap the end of the brad, so the metal spreads out, covering the hole and securing the layers together.
Repeat to rivet a brad in every opening.
|Using a paintbrush, apply a bit of silver Gilders Paste® to the wings. Allow the Gilders Paste to set up for at least an hour. Using another paintbrush, apply DesignaSeal to the Gilders Paste.
Use mineral spirits to clean up any places on the angel where you may have placed Gilders Paste but didn't mean to, and to clean the brushes.
: : : Additional Resources : : :
- ''Sawing Metal'' how-to video and instructions
- ''Inserting a Saw Blade into a Jeweler's Saw Frame'' how-to video and illustrated instructions
- ''How to use the Epic™ Six QuicKutz® Embossing Tool'' illustrated instructions
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