Design Idea RF4E
-- Designer --
Patti, Jewelry Designer, Exclusively for Fire Mountain Gems and Beads®
To learn more about Patti Miller, read her jewelry artist success story here.
: : : Materials : : :
Click here to view a full list of materials used in this design.
Please take the creative opportunity to select the products of your choice for this design, offered here at Fire Mountain Gems and Beads. Some materials may not be available or listed.
Instructions
Cut one 5-inch length of 12-gauge silver anodized aluminum 2mm round wire.
Cut two 8-3/4 inch lengths of gold anodized aluminum 4.5mm paperclip chain.
Using a wire straightener, straighten, on the roll, 12-inch lengths of each of the following:
As you work, re-straighten the wire every time you use it if the section you are about to work with is not straight.
Working with the wire still on the roll, complete the following steps using the 10-gauge gold anodized aluminum wire:
Working with the wire still on the roll, complete the following steps using the 12-gauge silver anodized aluminum wire:
Working with the wire still on the roll, complete the
following steps using the 14-gauge copper anodized aluminum wire:
To make the spiral-ended bail, take the 5-inch length of 12-gauge silver anodized aluminum wire you cut in Step 1, and make a 5/8 inch spiral in one end. Then repeat that with the opposite end of the wire.
Once you have both spirals made, use your fingers to create a
smooth dip between the spiraled ends for the loose spirals to hang from. The
dip needs to be about as low as the bottom of each spiraled end. Use round-nose
pliers to manipulate any sections that don’t flow neatly with your fingers.
Flatten the piece into one plane with flat nylon-jaw pliers.
To stabilize the wire in the spiral shapes, place a spiral, facing the direction indicated in the instructions above, down on a steel block. The seam of the simple loop should face down and the loop should be just off the edge of the block.
Use the domed face of a chasing hammer to flatten the spiral very slightly all the way up to the loop. As you go, hold the spiral by whatever section you are not flattening at the time.
Flip the hammer head around and use the ball-peen face of the hammer to add hammered texture to the flattened surface. Work from right to left slightly off the side of the wire as you texturize. As you go, hold the spiral by whatever section you are not flattening at the time. Repeat for all the remaining spirals and the bail.
Tip: Watch the video “How to Anneal and Texture Metal” for more instructions on texturing. You won’t need the annealing information for this project.
Add the longest copper (center) spiral to the bail by its simple loop.
Add all the right-facing spirals to the right of the center spiral, largest to smallest.
Add all the left-facing spirals to the left of the center spiral, largest to smallest.
Attach the hook end of a 10x6mm gold-plated hook-and-eye clasp to one end of one of the 8-1/2 inch lengths of 4.5mm gold anodized aluminum paperclip chain, using a 4mm 20-gauge gold-plated jump ring.
Attach the eye end of a 10x6mm gold-plated hook-and-eye clasp to one end of one of the remaining 8-1/2 inch length of 4.5mm gold anodized aluminum paperclip chain, using a 4mm 20-gauge gold plated jump ring.
Add the free end of the chain with the hook to the spiral on the left side of the bail. Pull the end of the spiral out gently, if needed, to get the chain on. Move the chain around the spiral so it is at the top, then flatten the end of the spiral back into place with nylon-jaw pliers. Repeat for the opposite side.
The pieces featured in the Gallery of Designs are copyrighted designs and are provided for inspiration only. We encourage you to substitute different colors, products and techniques to make the design your own.
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