||To create the swirled effect you will need to blend three different sticks of Friendly Plastic. Using a ruler and scissors, measure and cut Friendly Plastic sticks into strips measuring 1/4 inch wide by 5-inches long. You will need enough strips in colors of your choice to cover a 5x5-inch square.
Lay a sheet of Teflon® on a flat heat source such as an electric griddle and turn to a medium low heat setting. Lay the 5x1/4 inch cut strips of Friendly Plastic on the Teflon sheet lengthwise with the long edges butted up against each other as close as you can get them. Use a metal pick or awl to maneuver the plastic so you don't burn your fingers.
||As the Friendly Plastic begins to melt, help the edges melt together by lifting the Teflon sheet by the edges, rolling it and gently rubbing the backside of Teflon with a metal awl or tool to help ooze and ease the melted plastic together.
Designer Tip: Never leave Friendly Plastic unattended on heat source. When melting Friendly Plastic, avoid temperatures that are set too high as it can cause scorching and undesirable color changes.
||Once the Friendly Plastic strips are completely melted together with no gaps, remove the Teflon sheet from the heat source and place on a flat workspace such as a countertop. Working quickly, place your thumb and index finger on the Teflon sheeting above the melted plastic and, beginning at the top of the melted plastic near your fingers, slowly drag the marbling comb crossways in a straight line through the melted plastic.
Note: Quickly clean the tips of the marbling comb by peeling the plastic off with your fingernails to keep the drawn lines thin and smooth.
To create a marbled chevron pattern, rotate the Teflon sheet so that the pattern is upside down. Use your thumb and index fingers to hold the Teflon sheet steady and position the marbling comb teeth between the lines created with the first pass. Slowly drag the marbling comb in a straight line through the melted plastic. Place the Teflon sheet back on the heated electric griddle to blend the lines and gaps created by the marbling comb.
Once the marbled plastic is completely melted together again, remove from the heat source and place the Lisa Pavelka texture stamp over the top. Roll the acrylic roller over the rubber stamp and slowly press it down into the melted plastic. Flip the textured stamp over so that it is on the bottom and roll the acrylic roller over the Teflon side of the melted Friendly Plastic to further push the melted plastic down into the high relief pattern of the texture stamp.
To speed cooling, hold the texture stamp with the melted plastic that is attached to the Teflon sheet under cold running water. Once the plastic has re-hardened, remove the Teflon sheet. Then remove the texture stamp from the hardened plastic in one swift pulling motion. If the texture stamp doesn't remove easily, run under cold water until the plastic is completely cooled. If the textured Friendly Plastic sheet warps, flatten it by reheating it on the griddle for a few seconds (long enough to soften only the bottom portion of the textured Friendly Plastic), then remove it from the heat. Place it on a cool flat surface with a heavy, flat object such as a book on top of it until it is completely cooled.
||Using scissors and the shown templates (see below) cut the textured Friendly Plastic sheet into the marquise, trapezoid, round, rectangle and paisley shapes needed to make the necklace. If the cut edges of your shapes are rough, you can lightly touch them to the Teflon sheet on the heated griddle to soften and then press the edges smooth with your fingers.
||Cut a 35mm round piece of blue Friendly Plastic and heat it on the Teflon. Once the plastic is soft, lightly tamp the punched antiqued silver filigree square component into it so that the plastic oozes slightly through the holes of the silver filigree. Once the blue plastic hardens, use the steel hole punch to punch a small hole in the center of the layered antiqued silver filigree blue plastic round.
Using the dapping block and punches, round one each of small, medium and large gold filigree flower components. Using the round-nose pliers, flute the petal tips of the smallest rounded gold filigree flower outward slightly.
||Thread onto an antiqued brass headpin:
One 4x1mm antiqued pewter dotted rondelle
One 10mm vitrail Swarovski lochrose flower
One small rounded gold filigree flower
One medium rounded gold filigree flower
One large rounded gold filigree flower
The blue embedded silver filigree (with fancy side facing the gold filigree flowers)
Using chain-nose pliers, make a 90-degree bend in the headpin to hold the gold filigree flowers securely to the blue Friendly Plastic component.
Using a heat gun, melt a small section in the center of the pendant focal piece. Carefully press the blue Friendly Plastic component into the melted spot until the two pieces are joined.
Using the steel hole punch, cut holes in each Friendly Plastic trapezoid pendant, square drop and paisley drop as shown. Once you have all the holes cut, finish each hole by riveting it with a 3x3mm sterling silver crimp tube.
Designer Tip: To create a slightly blackened finish on the sterling silver rivets, use a soft bristle brush to apply a wash of liver of sulphur mixed with water onto finished rivets. Once the desired color is achieved, rinse the rivets with water and pat dry.
Use the flush-cutters to cut a 6-inch length of 24-gauge Zebra Wire™ and attach three pewter dotted rondelles to the center holes of the antiqued gold pewter drop using a backstitch technique. Loop both wire ends to the back of the pewter drop and apply adhesive to the wire ends to hold them secure to the pewter drop and to smooth rough edges.
Cut a one-inch length of 24-gauge sterling silver wire. Grasp the tip of the wire with the tips of the round-nose pliers and make two loops the same size. Then thread the wire though the hole in one pink AB faceted quartz crystal briolette. Grasp the other tip of wire with the tips of the round-nose pliers and make two loops the same size. Bend the wire around the briolette bead so that the looped ends meet at the same height and crisscross each other. Repeat to make a total of three briolette drops.
Using the chain-nose pliers and flat-nose pliers, open an antiqued silver jumpring and thread it through the crisscrossed briolette loops and through one loop at the bottom of the rondelle-stitched pewter drop.
Close the jumpring. Attach the remaining briolette drops to the other two loops on the pewter drop.
Thread one greige AB2X Swarovski crystal bicone bead onto an antiqued silver eyepin. Create a simple loop. Repeat for a total of three Swarovski links.
Open an antiqued silver jumpring and thread it through the top loop of two brass bells, the riveted loop of the silver rectangle Friendly Plastic drop and a Swarovski link. Close the loop. Open another jumpring and thread on the Swarovski loop and the left hole of the trapezoid pendant. Close the jumpring.
Open a jumpring and thread on an antiqued sterling silver coin and the left hole of the trapezoid pendant.
Open a jumpring and thread it through the top loop of the pewter drop and a Swarovski link. Close the jumpring. Open another jumpring and attach the Swarovski link and the middle hole of the trapezoid pendant. Close the jumpring.
Open a jumpring and pass it through the rivet loop of the paisley drop and a Swarovski link. Close the jumpring. Open another jumpring and thread it through the right hole of the trapezoid pendant. Close the jumpring.
Cut two 20-inch lengths of antiqued silver cable chain and one 20-inch length of antiqued gold cable chain. Open an antiqued silver jumpring and thread it through the last link in both antiqued silver cable chains and the antiqued gold chain. Close the jumpring.
Loosely braid the three chain strands together and, when you reach the end, secure the tips with another antiqued silver jumpring.
Open an antiqued silver jumpring and thread on the top loop of the trapezoid pendant and the center of the braided chain. Close the jumpring.
Open a jumpring and attach the hook end of the clasp to one jumpring at the end of the chain. Close the jumpring.
Open a jumpring and attach the ring end of the clasp to the jumpring on the opposite end of chain. Close the jumpring.
||Lay the marquise shape face down on a flat surface. Center the pendant on the chain necklace and then overlap the chain, approximately two inches above the trapezoid pendant, near the ends of the marquise shape.
||On a Teflon sheet, heat a narrow piece of Friendly Plastic scrap. When melted, pick up the Teflon sheet and gently mold it widthwise over one section of the chain onto the back of the marquise shape, being careful not to apply too much pressure that it oozes over the edges of the marquise shape. Once the plastic is cooled, remove the Teflon sheet and repeat to adhere the other chain section to the marquise shape.
Designer Tip: If there is a bit of Friendly Plastic showing from the underside of the marquise shape, trim it with scissors, heat the edges and press any rough edges smooth with your fingertips.
Cut off the top loop of a gold-plated fleur-de-lis drop and file it until it is smooth. Apply a generous dot of Crafter's Pick™ The Ultimate! adhesive to the backside of the fleur-de-lis and place it in the center of the textured side of the marquise shape. Gently press it down so the glue goes down into the texture, and then let the glue dry for 24 hours until cured.
Thread a 12mm vitrail Swarovski lochrose onto an antiqued brass headpin and bend it at a 90-degree angle. Using round-nose pliers, create a simple loop.
Using chain-nose and flat-nose pliers, open a jumpring and thread it through the simple loop of the lochrose drop and through the jumpring at the hook end of the necklace clasp. Close the jumpring.
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The pieces featured in the Gallery of Designs are copyrighted designs and are provided for inspiration only. We
encourage you to substitute different colors, products and techniques to make the design your own.