Ring with Swarovski Crystal Beads, Sterling Silver Component and Wirework

Stack Swarovski crystal onto a base of formed sterling silver petals then add a coiled wire ring shank to create a sweet pinky ring.

Finding the Center of the Flat Flower Component

Find the center of a flat flower component by drawing a line with a clear precise ruler and fine tip marker, working from the center edge of one petal to the center edge of its opposite petal. Continue to connect all petals to their opposite petals. Do this for both flat flower components.

Alternate Measuring Technique:
Use a digital caliper to determine the exact width of the flat flower from one petal edge to its opposite petal edge. This flat flower measures 20mm, so the length should be halved and marked at 10mm. Mark both flowers at this center measurement.

Punching Holes

Position the "punch" of a pair of hole punch pliers over the center mark of one flower. Compress the handles to punch through the metal. Repeat for the second flower.

Polishing the Drilled Flat Flowers

Using the polishing paper and sanding pads, working from the coarsest to the finest grits, pre-polish the flat flowers to smooth the walls of the punched holes, to remove any scratch marks as well as permanent marker lines, and to bring up a shine to each flat flower before raising the petals in Step 4.

Raising the Petals on the Flat Flower Components

Mark each petal of one flower at its base with a straight line. Repeat this for the second flat flower. Place a petal of one flat flower, at the mark, evenly within the jaws of a pair of flat-nose pliers. Turn the pliers enough to raise the petal upward 90 degrees.

Repeat for each of the remaining five petals on the flower.

Repeat the process for the second flower, raising each petal upward to only 45 degrees.

Final Polish in a Tumbler

For the shiniest polish, toss the flowers into the tumbler with steel shot and soapy water to remove measuring marks or if the flat-nose pliers created any scratches or dulling of the finish.

Forming the Wire Coil to Create the Ring Shank

Use a 1mm diameter steel mandrel to wind a wire coil of 24-gauge half-hard sterling silver wire. Set aside.

Tip: A 3-inch 1mm stick pin is as stiff as a mandrel and will work well to properly form the coil. The coil should be 2 inches long for a size 4 pinky ring.
Technical Tips:
  • For a larger ring:
    • Increase the amount of wire to create a longer coil. Use a longer ball-tipped length of wire.
  • To create a longer length of ball-tipped wire:
    • Cut a length of 22-gauge half-hard sterling silver wire, allowing an extra 1/2 inch--the extra will allow for balling up the tip as well as the 1/4 inch needed to secure the wire, as in Step 9.
    • Size 5:
      • about 4 inches of wire (including the extra 1/2 inch).
    • Size 6:
      • about 5 inches of wire (including the extra 1/2 inch).
  • These amounts are approximate--it is better to cut the wire longer than you think you will need as it can be trimmed as you form the ring shank.
    • Using a microtorch and butane fuel, form a ball on the end of the wire.
    • Polish this wire with polishing papers or place in a tumbler to bring up the shine as instructed in Step 3.

Stacking the Swarovski crystal

Thread onto the ball-tip headpin, in this order:
  • One 4mm round fern green crystal
  • One 10mm marguerite lochrose crystal red magma
  • One 4mm silver-plated rondelle, Siam
  • One 12.5 mm crystal clear ring
Place the stacked ball-tip pin through the flat flower with 90-degree raised petals, then add the flat flower with 45-degree raised petals. Tighten up the stack and add:
  • One 4mm silver-plated rondelle, Siam
  • One 2mm silver-plated round bead

Forming the Shank

Use a pair of chain-nose pliers to make a 90-degree bend in the ball-tip pin immediately below the 2mm silver-plated round bead.

Thread the 2-inch wire coil onto the ball-tip pin and up against the bend in that pin.

Place the coil and stacked pin onto the ring mandrel at the size 4 mark. Form the ring shank around the mandrel and bring it up to meet itself.

Hint: You may need to remove the formed shank from the ring mandrel for the shank wire to meet itself.

Securing the Ring Shank

With a pair of chain-nose or bent-nose pliers, make a bend in the remaining straight wire of the ring shank, about 1/4 inch.

Wrap that bend around the ring base directly under the 4mm silver-plated rondelle and the 2mm silver-plated round bead to form a tight wrap.

Hint: The single 2mm silver-plated round bead serves as an anchor for the 1/4 inch wire wrap.

Use the bent-nose pliers to reach into this tight area to squeeze the end wire tightly under the ring base, as you would when forming a wrapped loop.
Place the ring shank back onto the ring mandrel to reshape, if necessary. Polish using the Moonshine polishing cloth.

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The pieces featured in the Gallery of Designs are copyrighted designs and are provided for inspiration only. We encourage you to substitute different colors, products and techniques to make the design your own.

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