Double-Strand Necklace and Earring Set with Shrinkable Plastic, Gold-Finished Brass Drops and Druzy Agate and "Vermeil" Links
Dancing doll images courtesy of Evelyn Duncan on www.ekduncan.com
-- Designer --
Jamie, Exclusively for Fire Mountain Gems and Beads®
To learn more about Jamie Smedley, read her jewelry artist success story here
- Bead, Dione and Celestial Crystal, glass and gold-finished brass, 32-facet, pink, 13x9mm-14x10mm faceted rondelle with 4.5mm hole (2 beads)
- Flat back, Swarovski crystal rhinestone, crystal AB, foil back, 4.6-4.8mm Xirius rose, SS20 (8 flat backs)
- Drop, Lazer Lace, gold-finished brass, 25x24mm fancy leaf (8 drops)
- Link, druzy agate and ''vermeil,'' pink, 12mm single-sided round (2 links)
- Link, druzy agate and ''vermeil,'' pink, 22x13mm single-sided rectangle (1 link)
- Bolo tip, gold-plated brass, 33x7.5mm plain (2 bolo tips)
- Crimp, copper, 2x2mm seamless tube, 1.2mm inside diameter (5 crimps)
- Micro hardware, brass, 2.5x1.5mm nut / 4x0.5mm washer / 1/4 inch screw with 1.6mm thread diameter (6 micro hardware sets)
- Bail, ice-pick, silver-finished brass, 18x14mm leaves with 8.5mm grip length and 31x15mm filigree curved oval tube with 5mm hole (1 bail)
- Jump ring, gold-plated brass, 4mm round, 22 gauge (2 jumprings)
- Jump ring, gold-plated brass, 6mm round, 18 gauge (2 jumprings)
- Ear wire, gold-plated brass, 16mm leverback with 7x2mm shield and open loop (2 earwires)
- Clasp, TierraCast, toggle, gold-plated pewter (tin-based alloy), 15x14mm slotted D-ring, 10x2mm hole (1 clasp)
- Clasp, hook-and-eye, antiqued gold-finished ''pewter'' (zinc-based alloy), 26x16mm (1 clasp)
- Jewelry art film, shrinkable plastic, frosted clear, 10x8-inch rough rectangle
- Sheet, copper and zinc, jeweler's bronze, half-hard, 6x6-inch square, 28 gauge
- Thread, Purely Silk, strawberry pink, size D
- Thread, Silkon, bonded nylon, heavyweight #3, turquoise
- Ribbon, silk, pink and metallic silver, 13mm crinkled with tapered ends
- Adhesive, Devcon 5 Minute Epoxy, 2-part
- Adhesive, The Ultimate!
- Adhesive, Vigor Super Glue
- Needle, steel, #10 economy, 2-1/4 inches
- Needle files, carbon steel, 4 inches
- Drill bit, high speed steel and plastic, 1-1/4 to 3 inches with 1-4mm twisted bit
- Rotary tool, steel, grinding and polishing set with case
- Ball peen hammer, steel and wood, 16mm flat head / 16mm ball head, 10-1/2 inches long
- Bench block, steel, 3-3/4 x 3-3/4 x 3/4 inch square
- Toaster oven, Hamilton Beach Easy Reach, plastic / stainless steel / tempered glass, black, 120V/1200W, 15-3/4 x 8-3/4 x 12 inches
- Punch, EUROTOOL, tempered steel, 5 inches with 3mm tip
- Tweezers, stainless steel, 4-3/4 inches with #5 extra-fine tip
- Shears, metal sheet cutter, steel, black, 7 inches
- Beads, Dione, large hole
- Pliers, crimping
- Pliers, flush-cutter
Printer image transfer
Micro nut driver
Bead, Dione, Czech crystal and gold-finished brass, crystal AB, 12x5mm rondelle (2 beads)
''As a kid I loved playing with my grandma's jumping jack dolls, but as an adult I forgot the fun I had as a kid. Evelyn of EKDunkan.com reminded me of my jumping doll memories and inspired this mixed media project. Comprised of fine silk ribbons, sparkling druzy and a shrinkable plastic jumping doll pendant with moveable micro-hardware joints, this design is sure to amuse. Laugh out loud when you make your own jumping jack doll leap. Go ahead, PLAY!''
Print an image, or draw your own, to use for tracing your jointed dancing doll. The image should measure approximately 18 inches. Print two copies in black trace lines and one in color.
Note: Shrinkable plastic shrinks to approximately 1/3 the size of the original design, so the finished design will measure approximately 6 inches tall. Use the shrinkable plastic size scale ruler, on the instructions, to determine the size needed for the original images.
Tip: When selecting an image; the arms and legs should separate from the body so that joints at the knees, hips and shoulders can move freely.
||Cut out one black and white copy and use paper brads to secure the joints. Make sure the limbs have good motion.
Place the second image under a piece of frosted shrinkable plastic, rough side up, and use a colored pencil to trace the outline and light shading of the doll. Modify if needed to add overlapping joints on each piece. Use colored pencils to add color then carefully cut out the design.
Tip: Any color used on the shrinkable plastic designs will darken as the product shrinks so use care not to color too darkly.
Bake the designs in the toaster oven or conventional oven on a sheet of aluminum foil, shiny side down according to manufacturer's instructions. Once shrunk, place a hard flat object over the still hot doll components flatten them as they cool. This is essential so the pieces have no warping and can perform smooth motions once assembled.
||Once cooled, refer to the assembled paper doll to mark the joint holes for connecting the pieces then mark at the top of the head for a bail. Mark a second hole next to the previous on the edge of the arm and the hip joint holes of the legs. Use a small rotary drill tip to drill the holes.
Note: The drill bit will become coated with plastic each time it is used, clean the bit after drilling each hole. Using chain-nose pliers grip the bit at the base of the plastic and using pressure slide it off the tip.
Test each hole to make sure that the micro hardware will fit loosely in the holes. There should be ample room for the screws to fit in the holes. If needed enlarge the holes slightly.
Lay the plastic body component, matte side facing up, on a 28-gauge jeweler's bronze sheet and trace the outline, omitting the head and neck. Use shears to cut out the shape then file it to match the plastic body component without showing around the edges. Once the metal body component sits flush behind the plastic body component, transfer the holes from the plastic body to the metal body.
Set the plastic body aside then use a spring loaded center punch and drill each hole in the bronze sheet. Thread a micro screw through both layers to ensure the new holes line up.
||Insert a micro screw through the top hole on the knee component then string a micro washer and the bottom leg component. (Both leg portions should be matte side facing front.) Tighten a micro nut ONLY until it is flush with the top of the micro screw then check the joint for a smooth and easy range of motion.
Push the plastic down and away from the nut then apply a tiny drop of super glue to the micro screw area inside the micro nut. Set aside on a silicone mat until glue is completely dry then check range of motion again. ** If it is not fluid, cut the screw and repeat until the joint can move freely.
Repeat Steps 9 and 10 to assemble the second leg.
||String onto a 20-inch length of thread the top hole of the right arm, one copper crimp bead and the top hole of the left arm (matching sides facing up). Then pass the end of each thread back through the crimp bead so they are going in opposite directions. Remove slack in thread by pulling the ends evenly until the arms are approximately one inch apart with the crimp bead centered between them.
Insert micro screw through the matte side of the plastic body at the shoulder joint and lay flat on scratch free work surface. Then thread the bottom holes of each strung arm from step 12 onto the exposed micro screw while keeping the threaded crimp in place. Then, temporarily attach a micro nut to each micro screw. Do not glue.
||Hold the arms gently against the sides of the body so they do not rise as you pull the thread taut. Use chain-nose pliers to pinch the crimp closed at the center of the thread between the arms. Remove temporary micro nuts, lift arms off the micro screws and use crimping pliers to properly secure the crimp. Then thread both thread ends through a second crimp bead. Slide the crimp bead snug against the previous crimp bead and crimp to align the thread downward. Crimp the bead. Thread an additional crimp bead onto both ends of the thread and crimp it at the middle point of the doll body.
||Repeat Step 12 to join the legs together and Step 13 to attach legs to the body. Thread both ends of the leg strings and both ends of the arm strings through a crimp bead and slide the crimp bead snug against the last crimp bead. Pull arm threads taut so the arms are half way extended while leaving the legs aligned downward.
Tip: Before crimping, hold the threads and crimp bead in place where they will be secured and give a few practice pulls to check range of motion. Adjust crimp placement if necessary.
Use chain-nose pliers to pinch the crimp closed at the center of the thread between the hips. Remove temporary micro hardware and use crimping pliers to properly secure crimp bead.
Braid the thread to the ends and tie with an overhand knot just below the feet. Apply a drop of super glue to secure knot.
Lay the doll face down and remove all the temporary micro nuts. Rethread each hip screw with 3 Lazer Lace™ leaf drops, the plastic body and hip components and the metal doll body. Repeat Step 10 to reattach all four micro nuts.
||Insert small folded strips of paper as space keepers between the plastic doll body and the legs to keep them from getting glued. Arrange the leaf drops into a fanned out skirt and secure with Devcon® 2-part epoxy. Use epoxy to glue flat backs to the waistline of the leaf skirt. Let cure completely then remove paper space keepers.
Open a leaf ice-pick bail and attach the top hole on the dancing doll pendant then close.
Cut the tips of two 34-inch lengths of pink silk ribbon so they are even. Sew the ends together using a French seam. Thread a D-ring clasp onto one end of the ribbon to the stitched center (with the finished seam edge facing out) stitch the ribbon together around the bar of the clasp to secure in place. Using a 6mm jumpring connect the D-ring to the loop on one end of a druzy link.
Repeat to attach the loop on the opposite end of the druzy link to the loop on a hook clasp.
String onto both ends of the ribbon one pink glass Dione® rondelle, one crystal AB Dione rondelle, the bail on the doll pendant, one crystal AB rondelle and one pink glass rondelle.
Clip off approximately two inches off the ends of each ribbon end at uneven lengths then apply a generous amount of The Ultimate adhesive to the inside of each bolo tip cone. Fold the clipped ribbon ends and use tweezers to insert them into glued bolo tips. Set aside to dry.
Tie the uneven ends of the ribbons together using a slip knot making the loop large enough to pass the hook clasp through.
Pass one 4mm jumpring through the first loop on one druzy agate 12mm round link and one 25x24mm leaf drop then close. Repeat to attach one leverback earwire to the loop on the opposite end.
Repeat to create second earring.
: : : Additional Resources : : :
''Glues'' how-to video and illustrated instructions
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