Single-Strand Necklace and Earring Set with Cultured Freshwater Pearls and Wirework
-- Designer --
Rose, Jewelry Production Specialist, Content Development Group, Exclusively for Fire Mountain Gems and Beads®
To learn more about Rose Wingenbach, read her jewelry artist success story here
- Pearl, White Lotus, cultured freshwater, white, 2.5-3mm rice (27 pearls)
- Pearl, cultured freshwater, dark peacock, 5-6mm semi-round (2 pearls)
- Pearl, cultured freshwater, peacock, 18x4mm-25x6mm stick (3 pearls)
- Jumpring, 14Kt gold-filled, 6mm round, 3.4mm inside diameter, 16 gauge (1 jumpring)
- Chain, 14Kt gold-filled, 2.5mm French rope, 18 inches with springring clasp
- Wire, 12Kt gold-filled, dead-soft, round, 18 gauge
- Wire, 12Kt gold-filled, dead-soft, round, 22 gauge
- Wire, 12Kt gold-filled, dead-soft, round, 26 gauge
- Jig, Artistic Wire findings forms, open earwire
- Wire straightener, Artistic Wire
- Wire rounder, with 1.8mm cup
- Bead reamer
- Pliers, round-nose
- Pliers, chain-nose
- Pliers, bent-nose
- Pliers, flush-cutter
- Pliers, nylon jaw
Book, Elegant Wire Jewelry by Kathy Frey
Cut one 12-inch length of 12Kt gold-filled 18-gauge wire and two 3-foot lengths of 12Kt gold-filled 26-gauge wire.
Tip: If needed, trim the ends of the wires flush.
Use nylon jaw pliers to form a 90-degree angle approximately three inches from one end of the 12-inch length of wire. Form an alternate interior 90-degree angle, approximately 5/8 inch from the previous bend (so the ends of the wire are parallel).
Tip: Use your fingers or the wire straightener tool to straighten the ends of the wire regularly as the design progresses.
Bend ends of the wire inward at 90-degree angles, beginning approximately 1-5/8 inch from the alternate interior angles, forming a rectangle frame. Place the rectangle on a flat surface then place verify a peacock stick pearl fits inside the frame. (Adjust the frame if needed.)
||Bend the shorter end of the wire at a 90-degree angle at the center where the wires meet, so it sticks up from the top of the rectangle.
Bend the longer end of the wire around the shorter end at a 90-degree angle. Bend the wire down at approximately the same length the other "spokes" at the top of the frame. (Parallel to the other sides.)
Continue to bend the wire inward at a 90-degree angle so it rests perpendicular on the previous wire on the bottom of the frame, forming a third side to the rectangle. Bend the wire up , making the crossing wires at the bottom approximately the same length.
Straighten the sides of the rectangle frame and verify they are even. Bend the wire inward at a 90-degree angle then wrap around the base of shorter end several times to secure. Trim excess wire from the long end then press the end in at the top of the wrap.
Wire Wrapping the Frame
Place one end of one length of 26-gauge (working) wire across the center of the rectangle frame base leaving a small tail. Wrap the working wire twice diagonally around the base wires. Repeat on the opposite side of the wires to secure the shape.
||Bring the working wire over one base wire, then keeping the working wire taught wrap around the base wire close to the wrapped center. Continue over and around the next adjacent base wire. Continue in the same direction wrapping around the remaining base wires.
Tip: Use care not to press on the base wires or they will begin to distort.
Continue to wrap over and around the base wires in the same direction, covering the bottom and corners of the frame. (Be sure to keep the wraps consistent.)
Continue to wrap around the base wires moving up the side of the frame. After completing a couple of rotations around the sides of the frame, begin to wrap around each base wire a few times, to create space between the cross sections of working wire, between base wires. Continue to wrap up the sides stringing White Lotus™ 3mm pearls intermittently (approximately 2 - 3 on each side), stopping at the center of the frame. (Do not cut excess wire.)
Tip: Add extra wraps as needed to keep the cross sections somewhat even the base wires.
Secure the second length of working wire to the top of the frame, close to the center. Repeat Step 7 to wrap the top of the frame. Insert the peacock stick pearl into the center of the frame then repeat Step 8 to wrap the sides along the top half of the frame.
||Wrap the working wire on each end around the base wires in the center to fill the base wires and secure the working wires. Trim excess wire from each working wire.
Use chain-nose pliers to bend the working wires, creating a zig-zag pattern and taking up any slack.
Form a wrapped loop using the straight wire at the top of the frame. Note: Decide if there is a particular side that looks better, then form the loop facing that side.
Repeat Steps 1 - 11 to create two more wirework rectangle pendants (for the earrings).
Pass one 6mm jumpring through the wrapped loop and the 14Kt gold-filled 2.5mm French rope chain then close.
Cut two 5-inch lengths of 22-gauge wire.
Insert one length of wire through the hole at the base of the Artistic Wire® Earwire Jig Tool. Bend the end over the back to secure the wire.
Bring the wire up along the guide then pass the wire between the peg and oval form at the top of the tool. Keeping the wire tight, bring the wire around the oval then down the opposite side.
Continue to bring the wire along the bottom of the triangle and out to the edge of the tool then trim excess wire. Use the wire rounder tool to smooth the end of the earwire.
Wrap the excess 26-gauge wire around the straight shank of the earwire to create an approximately 1/4 inch coil then trim excess from each end. String one dark peacock semi-round pearl onto the shank then form a simple loop.
Tip: Use the bead reamer to enlarge the hole in the pearl if needed.
Attach one wirework rectangle pendant to the loop on the fishhook earwire. Repeat to create a second earring.
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